A Journey to Hearst
Castle on the coast of Central California
January 2005
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As we made our way north from
Santa Monica on Highway 101 (and Highway 1) it
was obvious that our recent rains have turned
the landscape a beautiful green. The photo below
commemorates our first bug casualty (there would
be many more).
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Aged California oaks cloak the
hillsides in this region.
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North of Santa Barbara we pass the turn off for
Vandenberg Air Force Base, the site of various
missile tests.
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The required wrist shot while en-route. I couldn't
get my girlfriend, Sue, to steer while I did the
"gray correction" so this macro shot
is blue blue blue.
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We made a brief stop at the famous "Madonna
Inn" in San Luis Obispo. This former roadhouse
and now hotel and restaurant is renowned for its
unique "theme" guest rooms. I attempted
to take a photo of its unique mens room but its
users were reluctant to be immortalized so...
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At the San Luis Obispo Mission we paused in its
rear courtyard for a picnic lunch.
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Here is the Mission's church
interior.
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The Mission's main entrance. The date is 1774.
As some of you may know, California's missions
were built along the El Camino Real with each
mission being about a day's ride apart.
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In the front courtyard there was a carnival of
some sort going on and, strangely enough, belly-dancers
entertaining the crowd.
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Here is a photo of the front
wing of the Mission.
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Next door to the Mission is the old "Free
Library," now a museum.
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Behind the "Free Library" I saw this
crumbling wall and had to photograph it, even
though I have no idea what it used to be. Chances
are very good that is all that remains of a stone
building that collapsed during an earthquake many
years ago.
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Leaving San Luis Obispo, we follow Highway 1,
the Pacific Coast Highway, to the northwest, heading
for Morro Bay.
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Our
First Destination: Cambria
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Here is a shot of the front garden of our motel
in Cambria on Moonstone Beach Road.
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That's the Pacific Ocean just
across the street.
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After being cooped up in the car for a few hours,
we decided to take a walk along the wooden boardwalk
constructed to protect the flora and fauna of
the shoreline. This shot is looking northwest.
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Here is one of what seemed like hundreds of
ground squirrels who use the boardwalk for cover.
These little critters were tame beyond belief.
At one point, a herd of them literally descended
upon us looking for a handout.
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Another shot looking to the
northwest.
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Here is Sue, having responded to my request that
she look around to be photographed. This view
is to the southeast, with part of Cambria in the
background. Oh, and of course, she was wearing
her SEIKO Bell-Matic (below).

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We decided to take a stroll along the beach and
clambered over the rocks where we discovered these
two starfish waiting for high tide to return.
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The erosion patterns on these
rocks is really something to see.
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Shooting toward the setting sun was a challenge
but, if you look closely, you can see the round
gray forms of California seals resting on the
rocks.
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After a good meal and a good night's rest, we
journeyed through historic Cambria before heading
to San Simeon and Hearst Castle. Cambria is a
very charming tourist trap and well worth visiting.
I only wish we'd had a little time to explore.
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There was no way I could resist this photo of
Canozzi's Old Saloon in East Cambria.
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At the west end of Cambria the main road is lined
with shops and restaurants. Apparently it is quite
popular with antique hunters.
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There was no way I could pass this shop with
taking a photo!
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Old
San Simeon
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We then drove up to San Simeon and made a stop
at "old" San Simeon, the hamlet where
William
Randolph Hearst had a dock built. He needed
that dock for when his yacht visited and also
for the cargo ships carrying some of the goodies
that would wind up in his castle on the hill.
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Just to the side of Sebastian Store was this
small building. I'm not sure if it is/was a church
or a school.
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Our
Ultimate Destination: Hearst Castle
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This is the visitors' center below Hearst Castle.
Approximately 50,000 of the 250,000 acres owned
by Hearst were donated at his death to the state
of California, including his castle. This huge
ranch was assembled out of several Spanish land
grants by William
Randolph Hearst's father, George
Hearst (who made millions from the Comstock
Lode in Nevada and other mining ventures).
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George Hearst
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William Randolph Hearst
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We got there early and parked
right up front.
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In order to reach the castle you take a shuttle
bus that winds its way up the hill, leaving the
fog of the coast behind. The top vista is looking
northwest toward Monterey, the bottom is a view
to the southwest.

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At the first staging area where the docents tell
you the rules (no flash photos, no gum, no food,
no drink, stay with the group) we saw the first
of the many fruit trees on the grounds.
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Here is a view of the steps leading up to one
of the three large guest bungalows built around
the main house.
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The above three photos are of the famous outdoor
pool. You can see for yourself that Hearst's guests
enjoyed quite a view while they gamboled in the
heated pool waters. Can you say "Xanadu?"
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Now we go up the steps to the
first guest bungalow.
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At the time of this trip (January 2005), there
were several different tours at Hearst Castle
and we took the "introductory" one.
The above four photos are the interior of the
front guest bungalow, a large structure with four
separate bedrooms. Because of the no-flash policy,
some of these interior photos are, sadly, a bit
blurred as I tried to pause for a no-flash shot
while the docents hustled us along. The furnishings,
in general, are all antiques. Many of them are
hundreds of years old and brought to the castle
from Europe and the Mediterranean.
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Here is the garden behind the front guest bungalow.
Statues are everywhere. Considering that W.R.
Hearst was a well-known prude, it's interesting
how many nudes there are!
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Here are some Egyptian statues just below the
main house, which is known as Casa Grande.
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Working with the brilliant architect/engineer,
Julia Morgan, Hearst attempted to recreate what
he visualized as a Spanish village, with the guest
bunglows clustered around a plaza dominated by
Casa Grande, which was designed to look like a
village church. Above is another shot toward the
northwest as the fog is beginning to clear from
the coast.
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This gold statue looks down on the coastline.
In her hands she holds a frog. Lucky frog.
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Casa Grande is too large to frame in one shot,
so here it is in two parts. The balcony you see
is off the master bedroom, known as the "gothic"
bedroom. Hearst, apparently, preferred to use
one of the guest bungalows when he visited.
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Here is the fireplace in Casa Grande's enormous
main sitting room where guests gathered prior
to meals. As the docent enjoyed pointing out,
everything here is an antique. I am always fascinated
by the fact that collectors like Hearst would
have rooms and buildings literally disassembled
and shipped in pieces to America, where they were
then pieced back together like a puzzle. Orson
Welles and Herman J. Mankiewicz must have had
this room in mind for the famous scene in "Citizen
Kane" where "Susan Alexander"
pieces together a giant jigsaw puzzle in front
of an enormous fireplace. Contrary to myth, the
fictional "Susan" bore little or no
resemblance to Hearst's mistress and loyal companion,
the under-appreciated silent-screen and talkies
comedienne, Marian
Davies.
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This is Casa Grande's front entrance, looking
out on the plaza. We, however, came in through
a side entrance probably reserved for servants
and staff.
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These two photos above are of the dining room.
The second photo is the ceiling, assembled from
a 500 year old ceiling Hearst bought in Europe
and had brought in pieces to San Simeon.
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I had asked the docent about the kitchens and
was told "that's the second tour." However,
my girlfriend, Sue, happened to mention to the
second docent, who was behind the tour herding
us forward, that she happened to know a couple
who had once been docents. When names were exchanged
it turned out the second docent knew them quite
well. So, he slipped us away from the herd and
gave us a brief look-see at a pretty darn impressive
kitchen. Note the reinforced concrete construction
so necessary in this earthquake-prone region.
The entire castle is built of reinforced concrete,
with facings and brickwork applied over the concrete.
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This is a 500+ year old tapestry in the billiard
room. The natural dyes used in the past, combined
with the conservation efforts of today, remain
incredibly vivid.
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As our 70 minute tour comes to a close we go
outside to see the tennis courts where guests
like Cary Grant, Clark Gable, Joan Crawford, Charles
Lindbergh, Katharine Hepburn, and Louis B. Meyer
(to name a few) could exercise their racket. After
their workout, they could then adjourn to the
pleasant waters of the indoor pool constructed
beneath the courts.
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This indoor pool is in an enormous room and really
brings to mind the beauty (and excess) of imperial
Rome in the days of the Caesars. Gold-leaf is
everywhere and the pool itself is tiled, with
no tile being larger than one inch. In the first
photo, that "balcony" is actually a
diving platform. The pool is ten feet deep, with
no shallow end. Just below the diving platform
you can see a side pool that Hearst referred to
as the "Ladies' Pool."
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Here is W.R. Hearst's private fire truck. Note
his initials on the engine hood. It is parked
in the lobby of the IMAX-style theatre that shows
a documentary about Hearst and the remarkable
castle he built high above the Pacific.
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Finally, after winding our way back down the
hill, we returned to the visitor center. Hopefully,
this photo gives you some idea of how far (and
how high) the castle is from the coast.
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The
Ride Home
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On the road again, just like Willie
Nelson.
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We make a stop in Morro
Bay to enjoy the view and have some fish
and chips. That rock mountain that appears to erupt
from the Pacific Ocean is one of California's most
recognized natural landmarks.
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I couldn't pass this Morro Bay establishment
without getting a photo.
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Sunday afternoon traffic was light and we're
less than 200 miles from L.A. Could this be a
miracle return?
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No. Suddenly, just north of Santa Barbara, we
are stuck in bumper-to-bumper 10MPH traffic. WHY?!
Because everyone had to slow down to get a look
at where the hillside gave way in La Conchita
and tragically took several lives.
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Once we reached Santa Barbara, heavy traffic on
the 101 (along with major construction) precluded
taking any more photos, so we will end our excursion
here and thank you for taking the time to view this
brief travelogue.
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